The good people at HAVEN and The A by BEAMS have put their heads together, and the results are pretty damn good. Four pieces of Japanese-made clothing that take their cues from vintage American workwear and military uniforms, with enough thoughtful technical details to make a fabric nerd lose an afternoon.
There are two distinctly dope stories here: one involving some spectacular Japanese denim, the other a rather special wool. Both deserve your attention and strong consideration.
The Denim Situationship
First up, the Vintage Work Blouson and Double Knee Painter Pant. Both are made from a 12.5-ounce Japanese selvedge denim painstakingly reproduced from 1947-era originals. We talkin' bout irregular yarns, tiny brown flecks from organic matter worked into the threads, and a weave designed to develop the sort of patina that usually takes years to earn.
The denim receives a faded wash followed by traditional Japanese sumi ink dyeing, creating a deep, almost-black indigo that reveals its character with wear. It's the kind of fabric you'll find yourself staring at in good light.
The blouson takes the familiar zip-front work jacket and adds a GORE-TEX WINDSTOPPER membrane, nylon lining, concealed pockets, and adjustable cuffs. The painter pants come with double knees, a detachable fabric belt, hidden zip pockets, and adjustable hems.
Wear them together if you're feeling particularly committed to the cause.
Military Intelligence
The other half of the collection consists of a Short M-65 Mods jacket and matching Over Pants, both cut from 100% Japanese wool flannel treated with a specialized finishing process called Nidom.
It's an unusual treatment that softens the wool while giving its surface a subtle, irregular texture. Only a handful of Japanese manufacturers have the machinery and expertise to pull this off.
The cropped M-65 features GORE-TEX WINDSTOPPER, lightweight synthetic insulation, leather zipper pulls, and special forces styling to satisfy your inner field operative.
The accompanying Over Pants borrow their shape from the original U.S. Army M-65 design, with articulated knees, adjustable cuffs, and a generous silhouette that looks particularly good with a pair of boots.
All four pieces are made in Japan, and the attention to detail is evident throughout.
We have a particular weakness for clothing that looks better after it's been lived in. Judging by the fabrics, construction, and considerable thought behind this collection, these pieces should have a pretty interesting life ahead of them.
Good stuff, indeed. The collection drops on October 17th at Haven.